Verapaz translated means true peace. I have spent the last week in Baja Verapaz and Alta Verapaz. It is somewhat of a blur of constant motorbike rides and family interviews, separated by the transition from a hot, dry climate in Baja to cool, green and rainy in Alta. I found myself appreciating the moments in between house visits with the local promoters that took me to the viewpoints over towns, ramshackle, delicious lunch joints, an enormous one-room cave, churches, and lakeside. I get to plunge daily into the local scenery and culture, almost by accident and absorbing at will. It seems I am a very porous sponge that never tires of doing its job. I guess I should say rarely, as I do tire after lunch and I find that I have to really focus not to fall asleep. The back of a motorbike is not the place for such an activity so the rule is, no closing the eyes and focus.
After a long day, all I craved was coffee and a large piece of chocolate cake. I told myself I was going to explore tourism options in Salama, Baja Verapaz because all I could gather was that there was a real nice church to visit. Good; but I like options even if I have no time to explore them and Habitat was interested for me to have a look. The Lonely Planet offered the address of a tour operator in town so with a couple of hours before dark, I set out on a recon mission. The tour agency was only recognized by the numbers that hung on the wall indicating the address. The hum of the sewing machine coming from inside didn’t make me think there was any use sticking around. After being handed the one and only faded brochure on the premises (and internally chuckling), the apologetic gentleman offered to make a call that would connect me to potential info. The former tour agency now sells school uniforms.
When I decide I want something, I like to get it and I wanted coffee and cake. I didn’t even want a tour because I had to leave right after work the next day. “Yes I will meet you at your house to see the museum at 6:15 after my coffee. Gracias.” Why do I so often have a problem saying no?
The next five hours made me realize how important yes can be.
Things stop at no. Yes leaves things open and means that you are willing to gamble that something amazing just might happen even if you can’t see it. We so often want to know outcomes and where a moment will take us but with too much control and lack of spontaneity, the creative edge is lost. We will not be pleasantly surprised and that is such a joy in life. I am not saying that I am planning to say yes to everything but maybe a little more.
The cake was amazing and the coffee picked me up. Off I went to hear about tours I would probably never take and to see a museum that I doubted existed. I did not see a sign and I took that as a bad sign. Deep breath and here we go, buzzzzz. The door opened and peeking at me through the entryway was a huge collection of marimbas and the walls were lined with photos and newspaper clippings. I immediately wanted in. I met Jose; a well-spoken, young, good looking Guatemalan with a contagious smile.
I explained that I was working for Habitat and interested in potential tourisms options in the area for groups and just plain curious. We chatted for a while about nearby options: the tallest waterfall in Central America, a well-known nature reserve called Biotopo del Quetzal, the informative marimba shows they put on. I was informed of the different types of marimbas in their home: gourd, bamboo, wood.
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| Ernesto! all smiles. |
Jose asked if was ready for the show and in came his father, Ernesto. He introduced himself and I immediately felt his warmth radiating in the room. Jose played a large drum that was over a hundred years old with a turtle shell accompaniment and Ernesto moved from one marimba to the next educating me on the sounds each produced while playing songs from different regions of Guatemala and other parts of the world. It was spectacular and their smiles kept catching my glances. I so was happy I said yes.
After the “show” we chatted and laughed, as if old friends, for a couple of hours. I learned that Ernesto, a naturalist for over 40 years, had initiated the creation of the nearby reserve. He is older now and aged in his physical appearance but his thoughts are clear and his love of the environment and teaching are still driving him. He was like a kid sharing his toys and a proud man sharing his achievements.
He brought out feathers from a quetzal bird to look at on a TV screen via a very powerful electrical magnifying lens. The feathers appear green but under the lens, you see that it is numerous different colors that create the green we see with our naked eye. I was giddy and he was so into sharing. From a leather bag came the five medals he had received over the years for his work in conservation and he talked of their reasons. I started to realize this man was a bit of a legend, yet ever so humble.
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| magnified quetzal feather |
Ernesto is also a marimba teacher and teaches a lot of girls in the area. In the early 2000’s, he accompanied a group of his female students to New York to perform. A couple of his students even stopped by while I was there to get some help with schoolwork. I was elated to see a glimpse of women being empowered through music, by men, in a country that gives so little opportunity for women to realize their full potential.
The conversation never lulled and I told them of my work and life as they listened acutely. It was comfortable and when Ernesto presented me with a wooded piece from a marimba and tied it on my wrist, I was fully aware of how unique and special this chance meeting was.
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| Ernesto and Jose with a painted gourd gift |
Jose offered to walk me home and I realized that four hours had passed since I arrived. I would have never known. We found ourselves having dinner and talked of working as guides in beautiful places while laughing about bear hangs and how you can boil water in a plastic bag over a fire. I don’t believe him on that one but I just might find myself back in their neck of the woods to find out. I look forward to a possible camping trip and getting to know the area these men have called home for all their lives. I am certain now that Baja Verapaz has some amazing things to be discovered.
YES!
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| random farmer, father, grandfather |
